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Opening the speakerlight



Remember! the speakers contain magnets. Do not lay the opened speakerlight near anything that can be damaged by magnets.


Removing the white top

The white top, which includes the light PCB is held in place by studs - two at the inside of the front silver cover and two on the inside of the back silver cover. It’s possible that you may be able to remove the top without taking the unit apart, but don’t tug too hard as the top contains the light PCB which is connected to the speakerlight cable. If you can’t remove the top, take the unit apart as detailed below. The top will then be accessible.


Opening the speakerlight

The speakerlight has a black / dark grey front. This has three lugs on either side that slot into three grooves on the side of the silver case. There are also two “studs” near the top on the inside of the front


You will need to lever the edges of the front out of these slots. Use something flat, like a wide blade screwdriver, to slip into the slot, then gently try and lever the lug out of the slot. Do this for the three slots down that side. Once you have a gap between the front and the rest of the case, it may help if you can wedge something there, like a couple of matchsticks to stop the front snapping back in place when you try and lift the other side. Once both sides are free, pull the black front off.


You will then see the silver cover. This also holds the two speakers. Using a Philips screwdriver, remove the five screws that are holding the front of the cover in place, then remove the cover.


When the front silver cover is removed, the white top may come away with it as well. If not, just gently pull it away from the back.


Disconnecting the cables

Gently pull the tags away from the speakers. The speakers are marked + and -for easy identification when replacing the tags. The + tag is larger than the -, so you cannot put them back the wrong way round.


The plug can be removed from the light PCB by gently pulling it backwards.

The plug can be removed from the control PCB once the PCB has been removed.

The light plug is longer than the control plug.

The plugs are keyed so that they can only be put back the correct way round. Do not force the plugs. If a plug doesn’t fit, try it the other way round.


Sealing

Foam is wrapped around the cables (partly removed in the photo), presumably to avoid vibration if touching the speakers.

The joint edges of the silver front / back is covered with a very thin layer of double-sided black spongy tape. This makes sure the joint is sealed when the speakerlight is assembled and thus prevent vibration. Do not remove this. This tape is also where the control PCB touches case. This means that you will find that this holds the PCB in place.


Control PCB

Remove the four screws holding the PCB in place. You may need to run a sharp knife between the PCB and the case to break the contact so that the PCB can be removed (see Sealing). Do not remove the tape.

Be careful you don’t lose the grey volume / brightness knobs. They are held in position when the control panel is in place, but when you remove the PCB they may fall out. You will need to remove them anyway, as they will need to be put on the volume / brightness spindles before the PCB is replaced. To remove the knobs, just put something down the side and use it to push the knob up. There is nothing holding the knob in place in the case.


Light PCB

The light PCB is at the base of the top, held secure by a ring of black plastic which is secured to the top by three screws. Once you have removed the screws, you may find that the plastic has some yellowish rubbery adhesive material between it and the PCB / components. This will have to be gently removed before the black plastic can be removed.


The pots can be accessed for calibration through holes in the plastic.  


The white top is in two halves, held together with a screw at either side. The PCB must be removed before the white top can be split because the PCB is secured to the top. In fact, there is no need to split the top at all.


Replacing the control PCB

You will need to put the knobs on the spindles before replacing the PCB. As with most control knob spindles, the spindle is round with a flat edge on one side near the top. The hole in the centre of the knob is the same shape. This gives the knob a “key” on the spindle. Make sure you put the knob the correct way up and then align the flat piece of the centre with the flat piece of the spindle. It’s easy to do. Just place the knob on the spindle and gently turn the knob until it drops down to sit on top of the blue base. The white top of the spindle will then be level with the hole at the top of the knob.


The knobs do not fit on very tight and are liable to slip off as you replace the PCB. The easiest way to replace the PCB is:

Lift the PCB, keeping it horizontal, with the components side upwards.

With your other hand, hold the sidelight case face down (so the wires are dangling out of the bottom).

Keeping the PCB steady, gently move the case to the edge of the PCB so that the knobs start to go through the knob holes on the inside of the case. Still keeping the PCB horizontal, gently turn the case towards the PCB so that the case traps the knobs and pushes them through. Gently push the PCB so that it now lies in its correct position in the case. Holding the PCB in place, screw the PCB to the case. If the PCB will not lay flat, it’s possible that one of the knobs has come off / isn’t in the right place.

This all sounds a lot more complicated than it actually is and only takes a few seconds to do, although you may need a couple of practice tries :)

The idea is to get the PCB in position without the knobs falling off. Keeping the PCB horizontal is the only way the knobs will stay in place. Don’t be tempted to put the knobs in position in the case and then try and put the PCB in afterwards. Unless you’re very lucky, the key in the knobs and spindles will not line up and the PCB can’t be put back.


Provided the PCB fits back flush in the case, then the knobs should be on OK. The standby switch is operated by a piece of plastic that is part of the rectangular knob that is permanently fixed to the case. As long as the PCB is in the correct place, the switch should work OK. You should hear a click when you press the switch knob.


Putting the speakerlight back together

Connect the plugs to the sockets and the tags to the speakers. Wrap any sponge that you have removed back over the wires.

Do not finish putting the speakerlight together yet.  Connect the speakerlight to the wallwasher and test the switch and controls to make sure that they are working OK. If OK, then finish putting the speakerlight back together. If not, unplug the speakerlight, remove the control PCB, check that the knobs are on correctly, then try again.


Put the white top in position and hold it there while you put the silver case together - it will be loose. Secure the case with the five screws, ensuring the white top is correctly lined up and that the edges of the case are a snug fit with no gaps.

Line up the black front and snap it into place.

correct
wrong
Fig. SO1:  Inside of front cover
showing stud and top lugs
lug
stud
slot
Fig. SO2:  Slots where the
lugs fit into
Fig. SO3:  Location of the
five screw holes
Fig. SO4:  Opened speakerlight
Fig. SO5:  Control PCB removed
- the two knobs still have to be removed
Fig. SO6:  Light PCB
- showing black plastic and three screws
- the circles indicate the pots for colour adjustment
Fig. SO7:  Right and wrong way to fit the knob
Fig. SO8:  Lining up the PCB to go in the case - it is better to hold the PCB and case
- connect the plug first
Fig. SO9:  The knobs are lined up with their holes in the case
- the PCB is almost in position
Fig. SO10:  The PCB is screwed into place